Bandhavgarh National Park, for example, has more than 100 tigers living in nearly 600 sq miles of meadow, mountain and honey-scented sal forest. Of this, 316 sq miles is the buffer zone, shared with humanity, and 275 sq miles is the core. Tourists have access to just 20 per cent of the latter — or 55 sq miles — but because vehicles are not allowed off-road, the total area within which you might see a tiger comprises the width of the track and perhaps 100 yards on each side.